I refinished mine this year, and its a big job! I took all the doors off and sanded them down to nothing, I too had to leave the bases where they were and sand them down from there BIG mess!
A lot of clean up afterwards. I then re-stained everything, and was so happy with the results! I guess it all depends what your budget is Related Discussions need help removing wallpaper - can you paint over it Q. If it's truly paper no vinyl fibres in there then yes, you can paint. I've seen it done. The seams may show more because with paper, the print distracts you, but when solid, they stand out more.
You might want to fill them in with a very light more watery than normal coat of spackle. My answer would depend on how much abuse your cabinets would take. In other words, are there kids in your home, or kids that visit? You can purchase just replacement cabinet doors online. These are custom made to fit the openings in your cabinets. Most cabeinet boxes are wood, so they are easy to paint. The doors are more troublesome. If there are no kids in your home, or visiting, you could do what I did, which is to face them with washable beadboard wallpaper, then paint.
However my style is cottage and not something everyone loves. There are other types of paintable wallpaper however. I would probably still give your facings a layer of primer, but I used these paints on in the kitchen remodel above on an Ikea end unit which was plastic faced pressed board it adhered well. Again, the caveat is that you don't have heavy abuse of the doors. This link takes you to information about how these paints adhere.
It's the local store where I bought them. They are sold all over the country, and can be ordered here as well. The store's owner shares information very freely. Good luck. Yes, but you'll need to properly prepare the surface first. The best option is to apply a bonding primer such as Insl-X Stix to the surface before you use the Milk paint.
This provides an optimal surface for the Milk paint to adhere to. Two other options are to scuff sand the surface or wipe the surface with Krud Kutter Gloss Off. Ha Ha!!! To learn how to clean melamine before painting it, read on! Did this summary help you? Yes No. Log in Social login does not work in incognito and private browsers.
Please log in with your username or email to continue. No account yet? Create an account. Edit this Article. We use cookies to make wikiHow great. By using our site, you agree to our cookie policy. Cookie Settings. Learn why people trust wikiHow. Download Article Explore this Article parts. Tips and Warnings. Things You'll Need. Related Articles. Article Summary. Part 1. Set up your workspace before you begin.
Place newspaper, a tarpaulin, or a drop cloth on the floor below your project. Ventilate the area by opening all windows, and turning on a fan if possible. Use a sander to lightly roughen the surfaces. Attach grit sandpaper to the sander, and sand every area that you are planning to paint. Pay special attention to the edges and any detailing.
Apply a liquid deglosser as a quick alternative to sanding. Apply the deglosser with a paintbrush, and leave it to soak into the wood for 15 minutes.
Then wipe it off with a cloth. Liquid deglosser takes the shine off surfaces and makes them dull to prepare for painting.
Wipe away all of the sanding dust with a tack cloth. Clean away all loose wood, coating, and dust particles from your project. Check all of the joints and corners to make sure that you haven't missed a spot. If there is a big mess, you can always vacuum or sweep away the dust first before using a tack cloth.
Clean all of the surfaces with trisodium phosphate TSP detergent. Dilute 4 ounces g of TSP powder into 2 gallons 7. Use a sponge to wipe down all surfaces with the solution. Then use a clean rag to rinse all of the surfaces with fresh, clean water. Always wear gloves when using TSP to avoid irritating your skin.
Part 2. Apply primer with a paintbrush over all of the edges and corners. Use a paintbrush to apply a primer that is specifically for melamine. Target all of the areas that you cannot easily reach with a roller.
It's vital that you properly prepare the surface so that the paint will stick over the long term. Improperly applied paint will peel off of laminate and melamine, creating a bigger mess than you started out with.
You will need to degloss and roughen the plastic surface of laminate and melamine with a light sanding or a liquid deglosser. Also, you will need specialized paint or coating for melamine and laminate. Some paints will call for a primer coat before applying the paint, while others can be used without primer. Glossy surfaces that have glossy paints, varnishes, or hard surfaces like melamine or laminate are shiny and made to repel water, dirt, and other substances.
Liquid sandpaper or deglosser and the mechanical process of sanding with sandpaper helps dull those surfaces, preps the area for a new coat of paint or varnish, and helps a new finish bond onto the surface, preventing it from chipping or peeling. Materials like dropcloths and contractor's paper are used to protect the working area, flooring, and furniture.
Also, take measures to protect yourself and the people in the house with personal protection equipment like dust masks and goggles. The fine dust particulate that results from sanding down plastic can be dangerous to inhale. Tape off the work zone with plastic sheeting and open windows and use fans for ventilation of the paint fumes.
Remove all items near the cabinets or counters to another area. Open the windows. If you can, set up a box fan , so it blows outward of one window.
You want to promote cross-ventilation throughout the work area. Place drop cloths on the flooring and tape contractor's paper or plastic on all surfaces that will not be coated. Confine the work area with plastic sheeting to prevent the sanding dust from traveling throughout the house. Protect yourself from sanding dust with a dust mask or respirator. Sand down the laminate or melamine surface with or grit sandpaper. Using a work light, frequently check you are removing the glossiness from the surface, giving you a matte or flat finish.
Do not sand down too hard, or you can risk damaging the thin wear layer of the laminate or melamine. Instead of this step, you can substitute sanding by applying a liquid deglosser or "liquid sandpaper" to the surface. Wipe down the sanded surface with a tack cloth, using light pressure to prevent transferring the wax from the cloth to the surface. Follow by wiping down the surface with mineral spirits and clean, lint-free cloths.
Let the surface dry completely. Skip this step if you opted for liquid deglossing. Apply a thin coat of paint or primer, if the paint you're using calls for it to the entire surface, using a paintbrush for the edges and tight spots and a roller with a high-density foam roller cover designed for smooth surfaces for the flat areas. Take special care to maintain a wet edge while painting: Overlap the edge of each painted section with fresh primer or paint before the previously painted edge dries.
Allow the first coat to dry for at least 6 hours or as recommended by the manufacturer.
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